Super Super Fashion Troopers - LFW

Tue, 09/10/2007 - 7:23pm

Super Super the show of the week I was most looking forward to during London Fashion week September 07. Why? My styling and photography students at London College of Fashion (Anna Trevelyn amongst others see photo) had re introduced me to the 90s revival via Super Super magazine 2 years ago and I would get to see it in the real and what’s different about the 90s this time around.

Relieved to learn again a couple of years ago that there was an alternative night club boom(and people were dressing up!!) with the likes of Boom Box and Family.I was beginning to get worried about the kids I had taught before all this ,seeming to be into Posh and Kylie devoid of any irony .What happened to alternative and irony, come the beginning of the millennium? I think it all went a bit on snooze. Observing that this next generation didn’t take celebrity worship to seriously and were self assured, playful and aware they could be there own celebrities very much thanks to my space and the self digital image revolution, bring it on kids lets see what ya got!!!!

Super Super showed in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue care of Blow Pr on the Wednesday evening. It had been a full on fun fas day with our Marian and Selene. Champers and reflexology in the back of a black cab curtsey of Scholl and with feet back in tact dancing while waiting for the start of Fashion East show to Diana Ross – Upside Down, teaching passers by my dance to the lyrics moves... You know the entire usual exhausting stuff darling!

So I head over to meet one of my long term bezzy friends Fiona Cartlledge (Fiona & Luke Jewellery) very apt going with her to this show as she was a major player in the early nineties party scene and owner of the legendary shop that was Sign of the Times. (One of my coolest Stockist in the day) Selling Street Fashion before it was called Street. When Topshop was full of dark safe colours and commercial fashion design was all about not taking risk with colour and pattern and cheap labour. Ohhh what a great place for an independent designer with attitude that was. Similarly to Super Super it was the power of the creative collective that ruled and got us Sign of the Timers noticed. Back on track girl getting all rosy about the past there arrhhh.

So Fiona was at the front of the show queue and I did the FUK blogger would like to feature card and it wasn’t working. The Super queue! Never had seen anything like it for a fashion show, so long. I was told would get in but needed to join the queue. So now I get back up front because that queue isn’t going anywhere and managed to get rescued by a lovely Pr from blow. Straight into free drinks, no seats and a video projection of Namalee all feeling very a la clubby. The next day I was told 1000 people were turned away for the after show party!!

The Super show starts over an hour late. Compared by Jodie Harsh what feast for kitsch eyes and a smasher she was. (Damn my camera just ran out of battery, right at the start of the show)She made me feel all bet lynch cosy,looked after and all was going to be fine with Jody at the helm. Super Showed five designers Komakino, Thomas Sels, Kling by Kling, Elliot Atkinson and tunnel Technique. and six performances by No Bra , The O , Namalee- Ms Super Super, Niyi, Black Peter
And Sub Universe.

The – O anorther Super performer was all about a length of red fabric and pair of white knickers worn by singer number one, singing an old Chinese song. Then singer number two attached to the first came out with a silver glitter face and sung a Barry white style song. One of my ex styling students Justine Josephs a talent (just styled the Kokon to zai look book) warned me that this may get messy. As at performances in the past they have been known to use blood guts and flour. I suddenly went all 38 once I had heard this and felt protective over my 1940s vintage dress. After moments of oh no what’s going to happen ? and spotting big padded bags full of something under his red fabric. Stay down that end of the catwalk mate then to our delight we were all showered with an explosion of multicoloured giant pieces of glitter. Sensory hysteria, I loved it. The catwalk sparkled ready for the rest of the designers and performers to shine on down it.

The Super designers showed a mix of oh just ran this up in my bedroom, aren’t I mad me designs to well made out there edgy pieces. Particularly liked Kling by Kling reminding me of body maps use of jersey a kind of playwear look. Black, white and grey graphic coulr mix. Also loved Tunnel Technique worn by Namalee and her two backing singers in her performance singing songs Namazonia and Go Girl. The dresses were like puffy patch work cocktail dresses. Mixed fabrics brightly coloured neon and primary polka dots mixed with patterned fleece and super hero duvets. The dresses were styled with patterned tights worn with doc martin style boots / high tops and Mohican big hair with neon hair bits. Would love to see more than three pieces from this designer... Namalee’s performance reminded me of bannarama (early days), bow wow wow, Madonna (early days) and a bit of all the other late 80s early 90s girl bands I cant remember the names of at the moment. Adored the little fella that joined Namalee in his cartoon t-shirt dress/ nighty with a silver cooking pan on his head banging it with a drum stick, very bubbles from Ab fab. Only in London.

Anorther Super performer also adding to the girl power explosion “No Bra” with her wildly long hair and coat worn with literally no bra singing F**k her do her, F**k him do him. I was transfixed by her. Need to find out more about this lady. Fiona told me she had supported Berth Ditto last week.

Noticed most of the clothes shown generally had a baby grow jersey easy feeling, unisex and baggy. Really like that there not playing the over body conscious card to much. The audience on the other hand wore short short 80s trash dresses and one girl looked smashing in a black cabaret style leotard bowler and great eye make up. However it unnerved me a bit as it reminded me of the Silver Jubilee street party in 1977 when one of our neighbours came out in similar get up after a few to many drinks and we all thought oh that’s what she get up to in the bedroom and when your 8 you just don’t wanna hear or think about that sort of stuff..

Super Super didn’t disappoint in creating the energy London needs to continue alternative scenes. Loved the combination of performance and designers as it gave the show any edgier feel compared to most other shows at LFW. More Superness next season please. Thanks, I was 23 again for an hour and was impressed by my updated fashion past that was the 90s and now nu rave. Although I have a hunch we will be calling it nu grave next season as this lot move fast. Go Super Super.

Girl on a (Scooter) Motorbike – Start of LFW

Tue, 18/09/2007 - 2:39pm

“It’s just like a film”! My favourite feeling and dream. Has to have a whole heap of reality in there somewhere and maybe that’s why I love this mad world that is FASH!

LFW What to wear? The sun was beaming down, mmmm let’s think the smarty sixties type printed cotton dress, belted, long sleeved with a bit of ruffle, knee length bought from Beyond Retro £12. And to set of the clash nicely a pink spotted cardigan from a charity shop in Old street £1.99. Wore the outfit the night befor to the Serpentine Pavilion opening, knew it worked and who would notice anyway ? Love a bit of spot on spot combo. (Photo in Marian’s blog.)

Marvellous Marian had organised The Bar Italia Scooter club to scoot us around the shows on the first day of London Fashion Week. AMAZING! We gathered at Marians 9am for a breakie selection: bacon butties, tea, coffee and strawberries all in the mix. Had a little pre ride banter with the Bar Italia Scooter Boys chatting about their vintage threads and the “scooter boy” look. Great dressers very sharp.

And so to ride, Fay Presto wowed us with her customised rhinestone helmets never mind Rhinestone Cowboy were talking Rhinestone Scooter Girls ( Karen Marian and Selene )S/S 2008 . Its gonna be everywhere!

We all zoomed off through the sleepy Saturday morning streets of West London to our first show of the season Gavin Douglas. Suddenly as riding on the back of the scoot, I got one of my glam film feelings “Girl on a Motor bike” then smiled to myself and said more like “Girl on a Scooter” girlfriend! Hilary Alexander appreciated the look too and shouted “Way To go “outside Harrods loading bay the show venue.

The Gavin Douglas catwalk was a smasher, very up couldn’t keep my shoulders from dancing to the fab 80s music, likes of Cameo. First impressions of show part 80s cocktail bling mix with Marylyn Monroe with a hint of Mary J and a dash of Five Star. Lots of Glam dresses with bodice tops, bubble skirts (not with my legs) nothing to do the dishes in but who would want to if you had a wardrobe full of his glam pieces. Great styling from Karen Binns messy Marylyn/ Mary J dirty blonde wedge hair and chunky gold giant charm jewellery. Over all a great look that could well easily translate over to doing it vintage! Although you would have to do some customising to get the look updated by applying big clusters of bling and better make it chunky. So get busy finding those 80s cocktail frocks you got a lot of cocktails to sip next season Girlfriends.

Estethica Announces New Sponsor

Monsoon and Accessorize have announced (w/c 2^nd September) their sponsorship of Estethica – London Fashion Week’s much-acclaimed platform entirely devoted to the best in eco-sustainable fashion.

Estethica has been instrumental in raising general awareness and promoting the concept of sustainable fashion within the industry and to the public.

Monsoon and Accessorize have a long history in ethical fashion, being a founding member of the ETI, which ensures that suppliers uphold standards relating to working conditions, pay and employment rights. Monsoon and Accessorize pride themselves on their commitment to achieve sustained improvements within all aspects of the supply chain. Both brands also stock Fairtrade ranges, and Monsoon was the first high street clothing retailer to make Fairtrade Cotton available in all its UK stores.

Peter Simon, Chairman of Monsoon and Accessorize, is excited about the sponsorship.

He said: “We are delighted to announce we will be sponsoring Estethica at London Fashion Week.”

“Monsoon started 35 years ago selling hand-blocked printed and embroidered hand-loomed 100% cotton and silk clothing. Beautiful ethical fashion is very important to us so supporting such talented designers’ work is an inspiration to the whole industry.”

The design teams at Monsoon and Accessorize will also be working closely with the co-curators of Estethica to set up a mentoring programme for students who want to work in ethical fashion.

The company has also sponsored the official guide to Estethica, which is published by The Ecologist.

Peter Simon added: “We are proud that we are sponsoring this event where sustainable fashion brands can get maximum exposure. We have committed to sponsoring the exhibition for two seasons, with other on-going activity planned.”

The Exhibition @ London Fashion Week S/S 2008

Posted: 06 September 2007

The British Fashion Council today announced that The Exhibition at London Fashion Week has increased its diverse offering through growth in dedicated curated areas such as Estethica at London Fashion Week - which this season celebrates its first year as an ethical design collective; Demure Untamed - focusing on luxury and originality in accessories; Designers and Agents (D&A) – bringing Americas newest and brightest stars to London; New Generation showcasing the best emerging talent in the UK; and Glasgow: Scotland with style Design Collective - supporting Glasgows leading fashion designers; all sitting within the heart of the exhibition alongside some of the best new and recognised ready to wear and accessories fashion designers in the UK.

The Exhibition at London Fashion Week continues to play host to Londons most creative talents and established businesses, such as Stephen Jones Millinery, Sara Berman, Allegra Hicks, Nigel Preston and Knight, Ann-Louise Roswald, Osprey, J&M Davidson and Madeleine Press who continue to grow their businesses from London. There will be 44 new designers in The Exhibition this September, all of note. Here are just four of the 44 to look out for – Christian Blanken for Nomad 21, is a 50 piece premium unisex London based collection, based on a concept of apparel that is modern, functional, highly desirable and easy to wear; Elizabeth Laus collection of dresses, lightweight coats and knits, provide an everyday glamour of a bygone British age; Missoma, is a mother daughter design team whose sophisticated, yet eclectic jewellery designs reflect their ranging influences from architecture, Indo-Persian and Chinoiseries design to the colourful works of Gauguin, Kandinsky and 20th century Russian artists; and, Jean Charles de Castlebajac whose S/S 08 collection Sportacus illustrates the fusion of Roman gladiatorial influences into wearable separates with subtle trademark prints and chain link details.

‘New Gen’ at The Exhibition, sponsored by Top Shop supports and showcases some of the most hotly tipped talented designers beginning to develop their businesses in the UK. This seasons selection includes Borba Margo; Danielle Scutt; Emilio de la Morena; Ginta; Louise Goldin; Meadham/Kirchoff; Modernist; Osman Yoursefzada; Peter Pilotto and Todd Lynn. Fashion East* brings Henry Holland, Louise Gray and Noki to The Exhibition, giving more emerging talent the opportunity to sell from The Exhibition.

Estethica celebrates its first year and its new sponsorship deal with Monsoon. This, its third season, sees 25 companies exhibiting, all adhering to one or more of the three traditional ethical fashion working methods: Fairtrade; organic production; and recycled materials. To celebrate the first year, and the increased profile of the ethical fashion movement, People Tree will join with Estethica to host a brunch on Monday 17th September, 12noon – 2pm within The Exhibition.

Demure Untamed is a new initiative curated by international PR and sales agent Valery Demure in partnership with the British Fashion Council to bring some of the most avant-garde and visionary jewellery/accessories designers to The Exhibition. Each designer will show edited highlights of their new collection as well as pieces specially created for the installation which pays homage to two women: American socialite and fashion collector Iris Apfel and curator Valery Demure. This area is by appointment only and will be launched at The Exhibition with cocktails on 16th September, 4pm – 6pm.

D&A is a snapshot of Americas emerging talent. This seasons selection by D&A founders Barbara Kramer and Ed Mandelbaum includes Area 142- Abaco, Iben Hoej, J&Company, Maje, Naja Lauf, Park Vogel, Pyrus, Rosanna Julie, Sabrina Dehoff, Wickle; Camose; Dolce Vita Footwear; Fontana Blue; Odd Molly; Oushka; Saint Grace; Soukwear; Zooey by Alice Heller

Glasgow: Scotland with style Design Collective celebrates its third season offering financial support to Glaswegian based, trained or born designers to show at London Fashion Week. Designers include Aimee McWilliams, Brazen, Jamie Bruski Tetsill, Jennifer Lang, Olanic, Scott Ramsay Kyle, Vidler& Nixon.
Hilary Riva, Chief Executive, British Fashion Council commented “The Exhibition at London Fashion Week is the world’s most directional designer exhibition. New initiatives such as Demure Untamed and Estethica, complement the strength of design talent within the heart of the exhibition, whilst providing additional interest and intrigue for buyers and press. The exhibition remains the hub of designer sales in the city during London Fashion Week, with international and UK buyers enjoying the ease of placing orders in one central venue.”

The Exhibition continues to be set out over two floors. On the ground floor you will find Demure Untamed, Estethica and accessories alongside „The Café, the Lavazza Café, the press office and sponsor stands. The first floor of the exhibition hosts ready to wear, D&A, New Gen at The Exhibition, the New Gen Café and The Chambord Bar.

Pre-registration for The Exhibition is now available on www.londonfashionweek.co.uk

For press enquiries, please contact: Crush Communications Tel: +44 (0) 20 7851 4655 caroline@crushcommunications.co.uk/caroline2@crushcommunications.co.uk

Julien MacDonald launches jewellery line

London Fashion Week favourite Julien Macdonald has launched his first jewellery collection in collaboration with high street jeweller H.Samuel. Known for his ultra glamorous and sexy designs, the Welsh born designer has worked his magic to create four collections, each with a different theme: Geometric, Flower, Facet and Chandelier. "I wanted to design for H.Samuel because it's a shop I remember going to as a kid with my mum and I've got a real soft spot for it! And I wanted to create four glamorous and luxurious collections, so that each provides that all important final touch to an outfit, whatever your style.

Every piece uses stones and crystals in gorgeous vibrant colours for a bit of real life red carpet chic." Julien Macdonald The designer's eclectic list of inspirations for the H.Samuel collection include the natural beauty of Spring flowers, the dramatic abstract lines of crystal stones and the paintings of iconic Art Deco artist Tamara de Lempicka. The Geometric collection makes a statement with clusters of eye-catching stones. Alternatively, the Facet range mixes clean angular lines with dazzling Swarovski crystals - coordinate with a little black dress and you're ready to dazzle for the party season! The Flower collection mixes Swarovski crystals with highly polished metal and reflects the nature trend. The Chandelier collection oozes party glamour to provide an essential drop pendant and chandelier earrings, both featuring vivid pink and orange stones for stand out. This limited edition collection of 13 pieces retails from £25 for a crystal ring up to £95 for a sparkling geometric zirconia necklace.

Image: jewellery

The Fabric on These Shoes Came From Japanese Kimonos

Shoes are somewhat beauty-related especially when the shoes are as gorgeous as these, created by UK label Hetty Rose. They were featured at London Fashion Week and I just had to share. Each pair of shoes are handmade to order by designer Henrietta Rose Samuels. This particular pair was made out of unwanted kimonos found in Kyoto. Amazing...

For more information, check out the Website or contact Henrietta at info@hettyrose.co.uk.