THE TRENDS: SPRING/SUMMER 2008

ABOVE: Dries Van Noten, spring/summer 2008 BELOW: Nina Ricci, spring/summer 2008

MARY, Mary, how does your garden grow? With Stella's prints and Dries' silks and all-in-ones all in a row... For spring/summer 2008, if the likes of Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana are to be believed, all out raunch is out in favour of natural, pretty innocence that is just as alluring but unselfconsciously so. And all the summer loving is going take place outside. The world's foremost designers double as eco warriors these days, with gardens strewn across catwalks and flowers smothering their collections from silken heels to bustled chiffon roses at the waist and shoulder to a plethora of springtime prints in between. Add a smattering of dots to your wardrobe either a dark, moody fade-away polka dot from Givenchy or cheerful coral-on-white from Giles at Daks, and spoil yourself with plenty of party dresses halter necks with full, knee-length skirts, slinky silk jersey ones with a single strap everybody from Diane Von Furstenberg to Alber Elbaz at Lanvin wants to see at least one shoulder next season to ruffled up, scrunched up, smocked and ruched chiffon. Colours were prettily pastel at Jonathan Saunders, Christopher Kane and Nathan Jenden in London, but starbursts of fruity orange, lemon and eyepopping fuchsia woke up audiences the world over. The length? Midi still has it, either full or drawn in to pencil. The trouser? Tailored beautifully to just above the ankle (Lanvin, Todd Lynn, Nina Ricci for starters), or, of course, drop waisted in a modern dhoti style. The bag? They're still big and their best in multicolour from Stella or Louis Vuitton but if it's a little clutch you're after go for a notebook style in pink python from Chloe. A touch of fringing wouldn't go amiss next season; brave a jumpsuit or a shorter playsuit version - our favourite was a pale blue silk one at Nina Ricci if you dare and add plenty of gold; glittering, liquid shiny or matt, to the mix. Top names to drop? Marios Schwab is still London's leader now that we hear Jonathan Saunders is off to NYC next season, while Dries, Balenciaga and Nina Ricci took the prize for best collections in Paris. McQueen's show was the ticket of the season and YSL, who generated a mixed reaction to a show full of models who could hardly stand, let alone walk in the oh-so-high shoes, in fact wooed with a collection that - on second, closer viewing - was modern, unique and beautiful: grey silk jersey was in fact sweatshirt fabric tailored for evening, up close, and the Perspex that had so offended in the show was quite beautifully built and retro up close. For dress down days next season, grab yourself a retro T-shirt to wear with a silk tailored tulip skirt it will feel like the best kind of rule breaking. When it comes to shoes, just keep buying (blessed advice): make them big and ridiculous (McQueen double stilts, anyone?) or gorgeous and silk and floral (Dries), but definitely make them attention-grabbin Our biggest criticism for the season? That designers should edit down their looks to make more impact so many, from Chloe to Marc by Marc Jacobs, even Christopher Kane would be well advised to make more succinct what they're trying to say to us. With London in the lead for the place to see the biggest new talents and have the most fun at the best parties, it was Paris that had the most jubilant fashion mood with a rugby victory to raise the mood even higher. But despite the rain in Paris and the late-running, over packed schedule in New York, the spring/summer 2008 fashion atmosphere is a riot of colourful energy: femininity, transparency, couture fabrics treated in couture techniques and fantastic shoes. Enjoy. (October 9 2007, AM)

Dolly Jones

Top Five Fall Fashion Trends for 2006

by Melissa Kagan (see more from this expert)

Fall shopping can be exhilarating. New fashion trends, new styles, new colors. This year's scene stealers are a mesmerizing mix of repeat performers like fur, the military movement and metallics. But there are also some new kids on the block, like plaids and the ultimate '80s. And layering is back but in a non-grunge kind of way. Clearly it's not affordable to go for every item the magazines have declared as must-haves, so we've narrowed down the newest and latest to the top five fall fashion trends for 2006.

• It's a Plaid, Plaid World
• All Things '80s
• Horsing Around
• Pump Up the Volume
• Lady in Red

It's a Plaid, Plaid World

The fashion world is mad about plaid for the fall season. Normally reserved for private school uniforms and lumberjacks, this Celtic print has a grown-up flair for fall. In fact, many of the big designers even showed it in the form of elegant eveningwear and chic capes on the runway. How can you wear it? How can't you wear it is more like it. The old-school rules of wearing one pattern at a time don't apply anymore -- you can, but you don't have to. Pairing patterns, like animal prints, plaids, tattersalls, paisleys and checks, is now considered modern and edgy. Can you go overboard? Sure. Make sure the colors in the prints go together, accessorize with colors that are in the pattern you're wearing and lastly, try to keep one print larger than the other so they aren't both bold. Other than that, have fun!

Shop for plaid skirts.

All Things '80s

The fabulous '80s are staging a comeback for fall 2006. Especially in the form of leggings, booties and off-the-shoulder sweaters. For those of us who are, ahem, young enough to remember this glitzy era, our first initial reaction is to cringe. Visions of Madonna and Jennifer Beals appear dancing and grinding before our eyes. But this time around, it's more than a passing teenager trend. This time, it plays into the modern layering trend that is making its mark in the fashion world. Key looks include, well, absolutely anything you can think of over leggings. To narrow it down a bit, we mean belted sweater dresses, off-the-shoulder tops, miniskirts and animal print jackets to name a few. All accessorized with look-at-me accoutrements like studded clutches, booties, gold jewelry, wide cuffs and gloves with grommets. Chances are, more women than not will try incorporating at least a hint of this look into their fall ensembles. Will you be one of them?

Shop for leggings.

Horsing Around

Giddyup into the fall fashion season with some equestrian-inspired classics. And it's not just the obvious form-fitting jodhpurs that we're talking about. Horsy bits such as chain-link prints on bags and tops, riding boots, tweedy trousers and houndstooth vests are all in the style saddle this year. Pair a tie-front top with a buckle-front cropped jacket or wear your must-have leggings with riding boots and a suede car coat. And have we mentioned capes? They are the essential toppers of the season whether you sport them with a full on equestrian ensemble or belted with ladylike skirts and heels. It's up to you how which pieces you'll purchase. But no matter what you choose, they'll add horsepower to your wardrobe.

Shop for riding boots.

Pump Up the Volume

Fall fashion is all over the place this season when it comes to silhouettes. On one hand, skinny styles rule, with leggings topping the must-have list. But on the other cashmere-gloved hand, trapeze dresses, bubble skirts and voluminous toppers have emerged as strong points as well. But how do you pull these looks off without looking like a cartoon character gone wild? Proportion control. The key to making these trends work is knowing how to supersize on top while keeping the bottom streamlined or vice versa. Pair a fitted knit with a large ball skirt or an airy cocoon coat with leggings. Can you wear full leg pants with a fitted waist and a short swingy jacket? Absolutely -- if it looks good on your particular body. Play with volume and see what looks best on your figure by covering up one part of your body with billowing shapes while accentuating another with fitted forms. Isn't that what dressing to look your best is all about?

Shop for bubble skirts.

Lady in Red

Each new season brings with a must-have color of the moment. This fall it's red. This uplifting hue first made a blip on the "fadar" (fashion radar -- and yes, we made that up) for spring but it has evolved into the color du jour for this season. The little red dress has replaced the little white dress which replaced the little black dress last year. Got that? But don't reserve this crimson color for evening. Reds can stop traffic during the day as well. Add accent to otherwise dull greys with scarlet slingbacks, clutches and belts or pair a red skirt with a graphic black and white jacket. Give your leggings a break for the day and pair your colorful clothing with dark hose. We think this color has longevity so don't worry about falling into the trend trap by stocking up on hot items that won't do next year.