Transparency and Bold Color Big for Spring at Calvin Klein

Renata Espinosa Fri Nov 2, 6:51 PM ET

New York - If you happened upon the Calvin Klein and CK Calvin Klein Spring '08 presentation on Wednesday, you might think you were at the site of a contemporary art exhibit or performance piece.

Instead of the usual showroom presentation, with rows of models wearing the latest pieces from the collection, the creative director for all of the Calvin Klein licenses, Kevin Carrigan, filled the white box space with a grid of Plexiglas boxes, with one, two or three models encased inside, as if they were sculptures in a museum on display.

Carrigan said he used the boxes to recall glass and water. "Everything reflects on each other," he said. "If it enhances, why not use an innovative way of showing the clothes?"

Not only did the clear boxes give an interesting perspective on the clothes, but it also reflected a major trend on the runways for next spring: transparency.

The CK Calvin Klein label, which will be re-introduced next spring at Neiman Marcus and select boutiques, is the collection most closely linked to the high-end Calvin Klein Collection. Linear prints, layering with chiffon, asymmetric one-shoulder dresses, graphic black and white and a play of textures like perforated leather and techno fabrics were the major statements for next season.

The new men's and women's collections for the freestanding Calvin Klein stores - opening up this fall in Detroit, Los Angeles, Denver, Boston and Atlanta - reflected a youthful, contemporary vibe, with relaxed suits in white and gray; loose, softly structured dresses; and touches of metallic.

"It's iconic American sportswear," said Carrigan.

For Carrigan, jolts of modern colors like orange, fuschia and turquoise were an important aspect to all of the collections, typically known for a more neutral palette of gray, white, beige, black and navy. "When I use color, I really want to use it!" he said.

Balancing out the slightly futuristic bent of the fabrics and colors were softer silhouettes like kimono and batwing sleeves, wide leg pants and soft pleats. "There's a softness in the clothes, but she's still a little sexy," said Carrigan, pointing to bright turquoise stiletto sandal with sporty straps wrapping the ankle from the CK Calvin Klein collection.

Also new for spring will be the CK Calvin Klein Beauty collection, which will be sold in stores such as Macy's and Dillards. Similar to the pops of color in the clothing line, Carrigan said that the collection will be about "playing with color on the face." Coral for the lips and eyes and blue or turquoise eye pencils will be just some of the major CK Calvin Klein beauty looks for the spring collection.

And no Calvin Klein presentation would be complete without the label's infamous underwear, modeled in the flesh, of course. Classic boxer briefs were given a jolt of color like turquoise, while women's underwear featured delicate touches of metallic lace.

By Jo Winterbottom Sat Sep 29, 2:52 PM ET

MILAN (Reuters) - Bold colors, high heels and an artist's touch were key themes at Milan's summer 2008 womenswear week which ended on Saturday, epitomized in the stunning gallery gowns that finished Dolce & Gabbana's show on Thursday.

And if hemlines really are a barometer of financial markets, current stock market falls will be short-lived as many skirts were short, either swinging full in 1950s style or pencil slim.

"The continuing message ... is colour, which is going to be very exciting for customers," Ken Downing, fashion director at Neiman Marcus in New York told Reuters.

Jil Sander, Marni and Burberry all used bold colors, while Donatella Versace ended her show on Thursday with a series of sweeping, slim evening gowns in jade, yellow, pink and turquoise -- a colour that seemed in every designer's paintbox.

At Gucci, designer Frida Giannini used a black and white base for her patterns but liberally splashed them with bright yellow and bubblegum pink.

Shorts or short skirts were favored by many brands, from hot pants at Blumarine to shorts at Versace and then trousers tied just above the knee at Giorgio Armani's two collections.

And if the trousers were long, they were almost all wide-legged and loose, with Dolce & Gabbana's D&G line labeling them "elephant foot."

Many designers opted for soft, flowing fabrics that they could layer for a selection of effects through teasingly transparent to full flounces.

Miuccia Prada, often seen as one of Milan's most innovative designers, used huge petals of tissue-like silk hung on the hips of dresses or draped across shoulders.

HIGH ART

High heels tottered along runways everywhere, many with beautifully sculpting or embellished with woven leather, as at Bottega Veneta, or linen coverings for Saturday's last show at Alviero Martini.

Gucci chose gold, for lace-up front stilletoes, and Versace and Armani both shaped heels with inward cuts to give an artistic flavor to the footwear.

Bags -- another important accessory for designers -- were big, soft and often carried a side pouch pocket, as at Dolce & Gabbana on Thursday -- enabling women to have the utility of a holdall and the chicness of a handbag together.

"A clutch bag that fits into a tote becomes your new twinset," Downing said.

For many designers, details were not confined to accessories and there were ample amounts of embroidery, ruffles and frills.

Emporio Armani had splashes of silver and sequins on Wednesday, Missoni banded a gold dress with bright turquoise that looked like enameling and Love, Sex, Money on Friday embroidered outfits in silver that gave an almost Turkish feel.

"The hand of the artist has popped up in every collection ... this whole painterly attitude feels very fresh," Downing said.

The artistic touch became fully-fledged artwork at Dolce & Gabbana's show on Thursday, when designers Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce asked three artists to paint fabrics for them.

Their finale was overflowing black dresses daubed with white, magenta, green or bright pink that looked as if the models had swirled themselves in the cast-off canvas in an artist's studio