Transparency and Bold Color Big for Spring at Calvin Klein

Renata Espinosa Fri Nov 2, 6:51 PM ET

New York - If you happened upon the Calvin Klein and CK Calvin Klein Spring '08 presentation on Wednesday, you might think you were at the site of a contemporary art exhibit or performance piece.

Instead of the usual showroom presentation, with rows of models wearing the latest pieces from the collection, the creative director for all of the Calvin Klein licenses, Kevin Carrigan, filled the white box space with a grid of Plexiglas boxes, with one, two or three models encased inside, as if they were sculptures in a museum on display.

Carrigan said he used the boxes to recall glass and water. "Everything reflects on each other," he said. "If it enhances, why not use an innovative way of showing the clothes?"

Not only did the clear boxes give an interesting perspective on the clothes, but it also reflected a major trend on the runways for next spring: transparency.

The CK Calvin Klein label, which will be re-introduced next spring at Neiman Marcus and select boutiques, is the collection most closely linked to the high-end Calvin Klein Collection. Linear prints, layering with chiffon, asymmetric one-shoulder dresses, graphic black and white and a play of textures like perforated leather and techno fabrics were the major statements for next season.

The new men's and women's collections for the freestanding Calvin Klein stores - opening up this fall in Detroit, Los Angeles, Denver, Boston and Atlanta - reflected a youthful, contemporary vibe, with relaxed suits in white and gray; loose, softly structured dresses; and touches of metallic.

"It's iconic American sportswear," said Carrigan.

For Carrigan, jolts of modern colors like orange, fuschia and turquoise were an important aspect to all of the collections, typically known for a more neutral palette of gray, white, beige, black and navy. "When I use color, I really want to use it!" he said.

Balancing out the slightly futuristic bent of the fabrics and colors were softer silhouettes like kimono and batwing sleeves, wide leg pants and soft pleats. "There's a softness in the clothes, but she's still a little sexy," said Carrigan, pointing to bright turquoise stiletto sandal with sporty straps wrapping the ankle from the CK Calvin Klein collection.

Also new for spring will be the CK Calvin Klein Beauty collection, which will be sold in stores such as Macy's and Dillards. Similar to the pops of color in the clothing line, Carrigan said that the collection will be about "playing with color on the face." Coral for the lips and eyes and blue or turquoise eye pencils will be just some of the major CK Calvin Klein beauty looks for the spring collection.

And no Calvin Klein presentation would be complete without the label's infamous underwear, modeled in the flesh, of course. Classic boxer briefs were given a jolt of color like turquoise, while women's underwear featured delicate touches of metallic lace.