Godfrey Deeny Thu Oct 4, 7:19 PM ETParis - In a season when designers are dressing women for picnics and stylish jaunts, Karl Lagerfeld has thankfully reminded us that there will also be late night parties next summer.
His black runway was lit by massive primary color neon strips, his girls were sassy in mesh covered hip huggers, or raring to go, in short bowling skirts and hyper-buttoned Eisenhower jackets and racing - Maria Carla vamping as a groupie femme fatale in an off the shoulder web dress over pencil pants.
Karl's spring summer 2008 collection had a Pop Art vernacular; test-tube blue shades, wide white belts and, the season's must-have arm equipment - a Lucite bracelet, and Lagerfeld likes his Star Trek spiky.
The show also featured the return to other designer runners of the Calvin Klein ambassadress, Natalia Vodianova. Freed from her "gilded prison," the Russian emoted in a biker mini and warrior bomber.
And, in a time of strict structure, Karl's loose over tight silhouette looked clever.
His choices, however, were a tad erratic; a layered baby doll look on pouting Lara Stone was naively jejune, as was the less than happy mad maid outfit on Carmen Kass.
But, against the dominant alpine current, it was great to see some brainy sex and mischief, all done with some polish, from quirky cloches down to the side-split, stiff silk cocktails. Call it seduction with sass.
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